A Mulligan for the Misguided

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Meet Hassan, a well-groomed, kind young man who was our guide for two days in Marrakech. On our day trip to the High Atlas Mountains, Joel Zack, CEO of heritage Tours Private Travel, joined us so we had both Joel and Hassan. Poor Hassan had to cut his teeth on guiding a group of travel advisors AND he had “da Boss” along, too! Geez! 

Guiding a group is a learned skill and guiding a group of travel advisors on an educational tour could be compared to trying to herd a swarm of bees. We want the “honey”, the essence of our destination, in quick, concise bits. We ask questions, lots of questions about culture, history, current events, best places to see or avoid and we are not an orderly group. Blink and you’ll miss the advisor who just had to duck into the shop to bargain for “that to die for” pashmina. Drone on and half the group will be through the museum waiting for you to catch up. No, guiding travel professionals as your first group experience is trial by fire! Add having your employer tag along to really make a guy sweat, figuratively and literally. Hassan did okay, actually more than okay. He could have been a little more informative, a trait we were confident he’d mature into.

Next day paired us with Hassan sans Joel. We knew he’d be more relaxed, but that wasn’t the case. Somehow we skipped the sightseeing and headed straight to the Medina for some serious shopping. We were told we’d see the snake charmers and people expecting to be paid to have their picture taken. Didn’t happen! Instead, we followed Hassan, whose walking pace qualified him for an Olympic event. Our stroll through the souks was like watching a movie in fast-forward. We did spend a significant amount of time at one shop (fact-all guides in Morocco have relationships with certain shopkeepers-get used to it!). Understand when you are buying things in the Medina, you are buying because you like it not because it is old, antique, extremely rare or valuable-none of those descriptors may hold true.

Michael and I tried to buy a few things at “the shop-the best shop-you can trust this place” but we failed to agree on price. Leaving the shop, we continued at breakneck speed, the souks appearing through peripheral vision, a kaleidoscope of color. Darting down James Bond style alleyways, we found our way to Riad Joya,  our lunch destination, gem of calm and a wonderful place to stay right in the center of the Medina. 

Our luncheon was delightful and we felt fortified for the afternoon sprint! Bravely, I asked Hassan to slow the pace down, which he did. We could have shopped more but the whole group decided to use our regained strength to stop at the convention center and register for PURE Life Experiences, the reason we were in Marrakech.

Registration was a breeze for those attending PURE and we returned to the Four Seasons.  Because I had scheduled a private shopping tour while the PURISTS did what they were here to do, I wasn’t particularly disappointed with the adrenaline inducing dash through the Medina. However, I was concerned that Hassan might behave like this with our clients-not good!

When we got out of the multiple personnel transport vehicle a/k/a the van, Hassan told us he had an emergency in the family and had to say good-bye to go to Fez. We learned that his uncle was in the hospital and had only a few hours left. Was this why we moved at Mach speed? Most likely! Joel’s company is known for its quality guides and in-depth immersion into Morocco.

Our guide the next day, Jalil, was excellent! He shared wonderful stories about Morocco, past and present, and suddenly Marrakech and its culture began to make more sense to me. Three days later I returned to the Medina with another guide, Aziz, an absolute delight and a seasoned veteran guide with Heritage Tours. Aziz regaled me with stories about Marrakech. We ambled through the souks on this trip and I managed to find some mementos to send home. When I asked about Villa des Orangers, where Michael et al dined one night when my body said, “Stay at the hotel and rest!”, Aziz arranged for me to have a private site inspection.

My morning with Jalil and the 2 1/2 hours with Aziz turned my discomfort with Marrakech into a fondness for the quirkiness and intrigue of this destination. It turned my “been there, done that” into “I will probably return someday, armed with my new found knowledge and my list of preferred hotels. Thank you, Jalil, Aziz, and thank you to Heritage Tours, who seamlessly provided us replacements for Hassan, and such high quality replacements, too! These types of situations, a guide suddenly departing or maybe a client not meshing with a guide, can dampen or even ruin a client’s journey. How our partners in-country handle the situation makes all the difference. Heritage Tours proved it knows its stuff, is professional, and our clients would have been totally unaware of any changes or hiccups in the itinerary. To borrow a phrase from one of the major credit card brands, our relationship with Heritage Tours is “priceless”!

The moral of this story? First, this experience underscored a fact I already knew, the importance of a superior guide. Also, I accepted a new self-discovery, I no longer enjoy a diet of unpredictability, that this travel advisor prefers to have certain constants-a welcoming place in which to rest my weary body and a host who honors my desire to experience a destination while avoiding the rough edges.

If you have been following my hectic travel schedule of the past several weeks, you’ll know I’ve been to China on two separate occasions, to Morocco and London. Thank you, Joel Zack, for sharing your passion for Morocco with me. Thank you,Guy Rubin and Nancy Kim, of Imperial Tours, for the ultimate, personalized experience in China, twice in a month! You are simply the BEST. Nothing more need be added.Xie, xie (thank you, in Chinese). 

And as Toto wrote in a note to Dorothy, “Done with Oz, took the shoes, and going back to Kansas!”

 

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The votes are in-Raves and Rants on Marrakech hotels

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Marrakech is an exotic destination, a bargainer's heaven, a culinary feast—all garnished with an inconsistency that is sometimes charming and sometimes unsettling.

Michael decided to attend Pure Life Experience, an assemblage of purveyors and buyers of unique, enriching and often life-changing experiences around the globe. While we are familiar with some options, we are always on the lookout for the what's new and different or a fresher experience than was previously available. PURE, in its 3rd year of operation, is held in Marrakech in November and I wasn't about to pass on this destination! So, I planned a week of R&R while Michael spent his days forming new business relationships and cementing the existing ones.

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Joel Zack, CEO of Heritage Tours Private Travel, invited us to experience the newly opened Four Seasons Marrakech, using it as a base for exploring the area-the Medina, the new city, many properties and the beauty of the High Atlas Mountains. Joel fell in love with Morocco when he was part of a group of  architects sent to Morocco to restore some synagogues. What we learned is that Joel KNOWS Morocco, he gets it, he understands the nuances and quirks and relishes in them.

My take:

I like Morocco and, now having experienced this uneven culture, I enjoy it—but it took awhile. I had to suspend my stand on women's rights (I am not so ambitious to try to change an Arab/Berber culture). I always wore conservative clothes (not a problem because I'm not into the latest trendy styles—come on, I'm 63 not 23!) and yet I found some men eying me, perhaps wondering what a younger version of me would look like (surely they can do better than lusting after a woman soon to receive Medicare!).

The Four Seasons Marrakech is an attractive structure, but it is not ready for "prime time " yet. Service, on the best day, is uneven. I know, I know, you're going to remind me that I am complaining about a phenomenon of Morocco. I disagree! This property is a Four Seasons and that brand comes with certain givens, one being exceptional service. Even if the employees are not used to the service standards that are de rigeour elsewhere, the middle management and upper management should be (no housekeeping one day, turn down service offered at 10:30 PM, really?). The other recommendation is to add some wonderful Berber carpets to the long marble hallways to soften the echo effect of footsteps and conversations.

Those comments from the viewpoint of a travel advisor who wants to ensure her clients enjoy every detail of their journey aside, we next spent 3 nights at Naoura Barriere, a definte DON'T(so much a "don't" that my mind refuses to remember the name, resorting to looking at stationery to recall the proper name and spelling!). This property was assigned to us during the conference, so we had no choice of accommodations. We were told it is a contemporary Moroccan hotel, an option for groups. I haven't seen or felt a whole lot of Moroccan, contemporary or otherwise, and feel more like I'm in a Marriott that still is decorated in the 1980's.

After  visiting several hotels, villas, and riads, I recommend you avoid the more recognizable names. La Mamounia, historic and elegant, with magnificent grounds might appeal to some, but I felt it was stuffy. Royal Mansour, owned by the royal family, is over-the-top and not subtle, it's riads are a nightmare of stairs.

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My favorites for in-city stays are Villa des Orangers, minutes from the Medina, and Riad Joya, a new hidden gem within the Medina. At 21 rooms and 7 rooms respectively, book early! Both are totally charming and each is an oasis of calm in an otherwise bustling city.

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You can't come to Marrakech without at least a day trip to the High Atlas Mountains. The beauty of the area, dotted with Berber villages, is unforgettable. We visited Villa Malika, a nice option for a couple of nights (request the junior suite on the top floor with walls of windows). Then we visited Kasbah Tomadot, one of Richard Branson's tony resorts, and a MUST STAY in my book. Okay, you're correct, I eschewed recognizable properties en ville (don't you love it when I speak French?); but come on, folks, this is Richard Branson! Have you ever known something branded with the Virgin name not to be stellar? Opt for one of the tented suites and be prepared for some serious pampering!

Now that I have my picks firmly in place for our stay during PURE next year, I'm off to London for a couple of nights of serious British luxe, staying at The Goring, now famous for Kate Middleton's locale for her last night as a single woman, but more famous for its lovable and sometimes outrageous Managing Director and friend, David Morgan Hewitt. Good-bye sweet mint tea of Morocco, hello proper English breakfast tea.

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Arrival in Marrakech: Am I being deported?

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When I was in Tibet, I learned that tourism can be affected  by the whims of the "government", a word used to describe any form of regulatory body from local to national. We were supposed to picnic in one area and the "government" forbade it, so we dined elsewhere in alovely spot  under the shade of a tree. I shrugged off the experience as insignificant.

Fast forward six weeks—When planning our flights to attend PURE, Michael and I chose to fly Easyjet from Gatwick to Marrakech. Easyjet, known for its pared down service and it's menu of service fees, has garnered a loyal following. I see a place for this type of offering for a short haul, but not for a flight over 1 1/2 hours. All coach and minimal legroom are doable, but seats that don't recline at all are the deal killer for me.

We arrived in Marrakech, enduring 3+ hours of sitting "at attention", and looked for our airport butler, a service offered in some countries that help new arrivals through the immigration lines and passport control. Not spotting our name on any placard, we darted o the shortest line. We waited obediently behind the designated line and, when our turn to be submit our passports came, we promptly stepped forward.

"No!" admonished the clerk sternly while straightening her uniform, "One!" Michael stepped back and left me to fend for myself with this impersonator of Attilla the Hun. I offered my best "suck-up" smile and hoped for the best. "Flight?" barked the Grand Inquisatrix. Oh my God, I forgot to write the flight number and fear coursed through my veins. A young woman a couple of people behind Michael volunteered the number. "8855," I told the wicked Witch of Morocco. She glared at me and shoved the form and a pen towards me. I scribbled the digits where instructed and after a moment more of glaring and a loud pounding of official stamps, I was allowed entry into Marrakech. She must have found Michael more to her liking because she processed his entry card quickly.

We were about to exit the area when a man, dressed in a suit, stopped us. I panicked-had Miss Congeniality alerted the "muscle" to teach me a lesson? "One moment, please" he said. "He said 'please' " I thought, "a good sign," I hoped. He motioned to another government-issue suited gentleman. The man joined our little conversation. "Mrs. King?" he inquired. "Yes," I whispered. "Follow me!" He grabbed my carryon and headed off at a rapid clip. He stopped in front of a baggage carousel piled with luggage recently unloaded from Paris. "Stay here." Giving me back my carryon, a better sign than the "please" of the other suit, he once again scurried off. A few moments later he reappeared carrying a luggage cart. I breathed a sigh of relief—we just met our airport butler! He quickly went in search of our luggage, definitely a challenge considering we were standing by the off-loaded Parisian bags. Emboldened by my realization of freedom from deportation, I moved our cart to the right carousel and quickly found our luggage. Our butler wheeled us and our cart out the door and into the waiting arms of our driver, who pleasantly drove us to the Four Seasons Marrakech.
 
Joel Zack, president and CEO of Heritage Tours Private Travel, our host for this brief 3 day introduction to Marrakech, asked us how our airport butler arrival was. Answering his question with a question, I asked if the person ever greeted people as they disembarked from the aircraft. "Well, they can't walk on the tarmac, of course, but are always at the top of the entranceway to the terminal," he responded, still waiting for my assessment of the butler, then added, "Where were you met?" We laughingly described our entry past Her Highness, the Growling Passport Agent, and Joel smiled. "Welcome to Morocco! This airport greeting service is fairly new here and sometimes these services are subject to those hiccups that are so distinctly Morocco." I shared with Joel the way the government in China may change tourism rules without notice. Joel explained that the Moroccan version, "It might be that a mid-level airport official had a fight with his wife, maybe a lousy night's sleep and for a moment procedures change."
 
Heritage Tours Private Travel's documents, as extensive as those offered by our favorite Chinese company, Imperial Tours, highly suggest in the paragraph about life in Morocco, "a sense of humor, a bit of patience and a smile go a long way." How right they are and not just in Morocco! Wouldn't we all be happier if we wore life like a loose garment?
 
Blogger's note: any exaggeration of the situation is purely coincidental and does not, in any way, reflect on the charming, thin-lipped Passport Control agent above (in case she reads this!).

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Gratitude is a verb…

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I used to live in a world of “Yes, but…”, of the half-empty glass, and all the sayings that scream “Barbara, you have a negative attitude!” Why I changed or how it occurred is not nearly as important as the fact that I have had a profound change of attitude. “And why,” you ask, “is this relevant here on your blog?”

I travel a lot, a whole lot. I am constantly learning about new destinations, new properties, experiencing places so I can create a magical vacation for you as well as fulfill my passion to explore our planet (and Space, too!). I have visited places of enormous material abundance and those of enormous emotional abundance. Sometimes they are one and the same, often they are not. And, for all of those experiences, I am grateful.

In the past several years of my life, gratitude has switched from a noun to a verb. Daily I review my actions to see whether I demonstrated gratitude or if I indulged in entitlement. Was I “giving” or only interested in “getting”?

Even here, while writing this blog, what is my motive behind my motive? Of course, I want you to remember Great Getaways Travel and call on us to help you plan your next vacation. Yet, there is more than profit motive at work. As we begin to celebrate our 20th year in business, I find my passion for travel has not ebbed; rather, it has increased. There is always a new place to experience, a new food to try, a new friend to make and I want to share my joy of discovery with you. My wish for you is that your life is filled with what we, at Great Getaways Travel, call the “luxury” of experience.

I invite you to celebrate our 20th year of business with us. We are truly grateful to those of you who have experienced our vacations, to those who have helped us created memorable moments for our clients,  to those who are reading this blog, and to the many souls, known and unknown, who have made this journey so satisfying. 

The video below by Louie Schwartzberg, award-winning cinematographer, from a TED Conference in San Francisco,   is our gift to you:

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It’s about time, don’t you think?

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On November 6 at 2:00 AM the US will begin its ritual of “falling back”. No, I’m not talking economics, I’m talking “TIME”. Daylight Savings Time becomes Standard Time, or those who embrace acronyms would say, “CDT become CST”. Have you ever wondered why we have this routine? I’ve read different reasons and, thanks to alltop.com, I found this interesting video.

My problem is more than time change, it’s time change mixed with jetlag. I’ll be coming home from Morocco on November 6 and my body will have no clue whether I’m on Moroccan time, CST, or ABC! Maybe coming home the day the time changes is a good thing!

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Virtuoso Members Shine in Shanghai!

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A whirlwind week in China has ended, I’m comfortable sitting at home with my laptop is, well of course, on my lap, and it’s time to catch you up on Virtuoso Chairman’s Event 3 days in Shanghai.

I already mentioned our arrival at the Ritz Carlton, the wall of applause as we entered, the breathtaking and well-appointed rooms. I forgot to add when our luggage arrived in our room, each piece had an engraved silver Ritz Carlton luggage tag attached personalized with our name. 

I prefer being on the Puxi side of Shanghai for several reasons, accessibility to my favorite shops and markets, walking along the Bund, enjoying the view of the skyscrapers on the Pudong side with their lighted exterior decor at night, and being closer to the actual city center of Shanghai. Holding that bias, I still delighted in everything about the Ritz Carlton Pudong – the contemporary yet classic feel of the rooms, the steeping tub that affords a skyline view of the Puxi side, the double-headed shower that allows you to use both the handheld and rain shower head in tandem, the French press coffee pot, bedside room controls, phenomenonal service without the obsequious aftertaste, and food equal to the best privately owned, trendy hideaway.

An editorial correction: I mentioned we dined at Flair but spelled it Flare. Personally, I suggest they rename the restaurant Flair Flare because it is both stylish and eye-catching!

Thursday, October 20 presented us with options for tours such as the Back to the Future tour of the French concession led by W. Patrick Cranley, the Yu Yuan Garden and Old Town area led by my dear friend, Gerald Hatherly of A&K, a tour of the Jewish section (Did you know Shanghai was one of only a handful of places that did NOT have immigration restrictions?).  We lunched at the Swatch Art Peace Hotel and had a sumptuous food-station buffet dinner at the swank Park Hyatt Shanghai. The Park Hyatt Shanghai, the tallest hotel in the world, entertained us in their private dining venue on the 93rd floor.

Friday began with gray clouds and a few sprinkles that morphed into a lovely puffed-cloud, blue sky day. We spent the morning in an area on the outskirts of Shanghai, Zhujiajiao, a village whose roots go back hundreds of years. Many of the century old buildings house art galleries, craft stores, shops, and museums. Often called the Venice of Shanghai, Zhujiojiao is also famous for its system of canals. Before boarding a boat for a ride in the canal, you can purchase a small koi fish to release in the river and that is supposed to bring good luck. This is actually a great business model: The vendor catches the fish in the river, sells it for RMB 5 to us, we release it in the river, and the vendor catches it again! Gotta love the entrepreneurial spirit!

If it’s noontime, we must be lunching somewhere wonderful, right? Friday’s luncheon at the Grand Hyatt, was nothing less than mesmerizing. Before the meal we enjoyed apertifs, champagne, hors d’ouevres, and opera, arias sung by a tenor whose voice rivaled Andrea Bocelli. Staying with the Italian theme, our meal was a contemporary Italian dream.

Friday night, our final evening, found us all decked out in our custom-made black velvet Mandarin styled jackets. Before arriving in China, we sent our measurements to Virtuoso and included our choice for the lining color. Upon arriving at the Ritz Carlton Pudong, we had a final fitting of our jackets and proudly wore them for our final Gala dinner, which was held at the Peninsula Shanghai on the Bund. I had the good fortune to stay at that uber sophisticated property last month and was eager to return. After an elegant cocktail hour, our hosts ushered us into the ballroom set with four long banquet tables adorned with silver candelabra, beautiful china, and both Western silverware and silver inlaid ebony chopsticks. Our multi-course meal was an example of the best of contemporary Chinese cuisine, and dessert – glad you asked! Dessert, held in the lounge area of the 13th floor, featured desserts of the future, yummy treats interspersed in a setting of a futuristic chemistry lab! Only the iconic Peninsula group could be so creative!

We reluctantly bid farewell to the Ritz Carlton Pudong on Saturday morning and headed to the Shanghai Pudong Airport. Our final China treat was a ride on the famouse Maglev, the world’s fastest highspeed magnetic levitation train. Reaching a speed of 431 km/h, we traversed the 30 km route in just over 7 minutes.

The takeaway: Plan a visit to China today! Enjoy a mix of the “lure of the past” and feel the “impact of the future” in today’s China. This is not your mother’s China nor the China many of thousands of people dressed alike in  drab uniforms black, gray, or blue. China is vibrant and exciting, a hotbed of creativity and design, a forward thinking and acting country that today honors its rich history.

PS. Many of you know I’ve been very critical of the service I’ve received on international flights. Now hear this: the flight crews on United, both directions, was excellent. Maybe there is hope that we haven’t lost sight of true customer care!

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Space Bulletin: A New Dawn

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Virgin Galactic Gateway to Space

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Dancers Perform for the Crowd

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Gov. Susana Martinez & Sir Richard Branson
on the balcony of the new building.

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Buzz Aldrin & Sir Richard Branson

A NEW DAWN…

October 17th, 2011 saw passage of a major milestone in the fast-developing arena of commercial space operations. Fledgling space line Virgin Galactic held a dedication ceremony for their newly completed Terminal Hangar Facility.

As the anchor tenants at Spaceport America, the company worked closely with the New Mexico Spaceport Authority to design and build a truly unique structure for their new base of operations. The LEED Gold certified building was designed by renowned architects Foster + Partners, who went to great lengths to ensure the structure blended in to its natural surroundings while still evoking the new space age. Those attending the event agreed these objectives have been achieved.

Hundreds of Virgin Galactic customers, dignitaries and international media gathered at the gleaming new facility to witness another historic stop along the road to commercial space tourism. The group was welcomed by Virgin founder Sir Richard Branson. During his remarks he spoke about the imperative behind the cause and the need to be pioneers at the dawn of a new phase in human achievement. The customers in attendance were acknowledged for their crucial role in paving the way for a future of affordable space tourism and transport.

During the ceremony, it was announced that new flight reservations have been made by research and education institutions to support research initiatives and inspire students. Purdue University, Space Florida, The Challenger Center for Space Education and Southwest Research Institute were recognized as the most recent participants in this new growth area for Virgin Galactic.

During the ceremonies, Richard Branson invited the group to enjoy a performance by two very special guests at which point WhiteKnightTwo carrying SpaceShipTwo taxied out to take off from Spaceport America for a stunning flight demonstration. To conclude the events of the day and as part of the ceremony to formally name the new building ‘Virgin Galactic Gateway to Space’, Richard and his children Holly and Sam, who will be the first commercial passengers on SpaceShipTwo rappelled together from the balcony of the striking new building, bringing the event to a spectacular conclusion.

To find out more about Virgin Galactic and how you can become a part of history, contact your Virgin Galactic Accredited Space Agent…

Barbara King
(913) 338-2244 or barbara@greatgetaways.travel
www.greatgetaways.travel

 

The VIRGIN GALACTIC name and logos, the GALACTIC logo and IRIS device are trademarks of Virgin Enterprises Limited.
The trademarks VIRTUOSO, the Globe Swirl Logo, SPECIALISTS IN THE ART OF TRAVEL are registered trademarks of Virtuoso, Ltd. All rights reserved. Other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. CST#2069091-40 12/09

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If it’s Wednesday, it must be Beijing or is it Shanghai?

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Wednesday, often called Hump Day, marked the last day in  Beijing and our first day in Shanghai. We squeezed in one more bit of sightseeing Wednesday morning in Beijing. We went to the Hutong area, one of Beijing’s last and oldest neighborhoods. A hutong is traditionally described as a quadrangle of houses with the main house in the North. North is a very important concept to the Chinese and many historic areas are on a North-South line. When the Communists took over, they changed the main emphasis to East-West. They built a broad, multi-lane road that runs for 30 miles on an East-West axis. In fact, Raffles Hotel sits on that boulevard. While the government felt the change was important, people still held to the North-South concept. The government has relented and when they built the two main structures for the 2008 Olympics, the Bird’s Nest and the Water Cube, they built them on a North-South line. The government now claims to be the custodian of the traditional China.

Our visit to the hutong began was a leisurely stroll through a market area and we were guided by Lijia Zhang, noted author and lecturer. Our next activity was a ride through the hutong area in rickshaws. We stopped along the way to admire the scenery and we spent some time in a park where our senses were bombarded by so many interesting sights and sounds–senior citizens exercizing, a man practicing calligraphy on the ground using a long brush and water, heated games of table tennis, grandparents and grandchildren playing together, and myriad of bicycles parked while people visited.

After a stop at the Westin Beijing to “test their plumbing” (one does NOT want to use the public restrooms, if possible!), we headed to the domestic terminal at the airport. We were escorted through the maze of people and queues and found our way to our gate for our flight to Shanghai. One last bit of elan, Imperial Tours had ordered each of us a takeout lunch of chicken and caesar salad to be delivered to the airport from one of their favorite delis.

The flight was uneventful (a good thing) and when we landed in Shanghai, we were greeted by our hosts for the second part of our journey, Patrick MacLeod and Gerald Hatherly and the staff of A&K. Once on our way in our motorcoaches, our guide gave us a brief history of Shanghai, often called “Paris of the East.” I love Shanghai! Michael and I have talked about renting a place for a month at some future day so we can fully embrace this city. 

We exited the motorcoach and were surrounded by applause from the staff of the Ritz Carlton Pudong, who lined the way inside. They provided a lovely aperitif, we picked up our custom-made black velvet Mao jackets with brightly colored lining and headed to our rooms. My girlfriend, Sam, audibly gasped as we entered our room. “Oh my God,” she said, “this is wonderful!” The girl has good taste because recently Conde Nast Traveler rated the Ritz Carlton Pudong as the best hotel in the world! 

Quick wardrobe change again and, voila, time to go to Flare, the loft-style restaurant and night club on the 58th floor. Food, food and more food–all of various Asian countries–was provided and we were entertained by a trio of female violinists playing pulsating and lively music. 

Next stop was back to our suites and the oh so comfy Ritz Carlton beds. We are most definitely in Shanghai!

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Ready, set, shop, sight-see, dine and dance!

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At 7:59 AM on Tuesday, October 19 the athletes had finished stretching, their muscles tensed, eyes focused awaiting the beginning of the race to the Presidential Suite at Raffles Hotel.  Perhaps I am exaggerating a bit…what I am describing was our anticipation of the beginning of the Virtuoso Shopping Bazaar, a display of unique items procured by Nancy Kim, Managing Director of Imperial Tours, and presented in a boutique setting in the Presidential Suite . Jewelry, clothing, cashmeres, private blend teas, and Tibetan ethnic goods were scooped up with enthusiasm and, as we boarded the motor coaches for our lunch on the Great Wall, we modeled some of our purchases.

An expert in the history and construction of the Great Wall was aboard each of the 4 motor coaches. David Spindler, our Guru of all things Great Wall, shared many details that fascinated me. A “great wall” actually is defined as a non-enclosed wall (like city walls in Xi’an or Dubrovnik) with a minimum defined thickness, height and length. China’s Great Wall is a series of walls joined together. The fired brick construction was see at locations near Beijing are the newest construction. Some of the oldest and still standing parts are actually tamped dirt. 

There are certain areas round Beijing where the Wall has been restored and those locales are tourist friendly. This visit to the wall was my 3rd and the takeaway is that where you visit the wall matters. My first time I was in a sea of tourists. The second time, in 2008 with Gerald Hatherly of A&K Hong Kong, we went about an hour outside of the city center to an area that felt quiet and serene. This time, because of the large size of our group, we visited an area that was more populated than visit #2 and much better than my first Great Wall experience. I sound like I’m telling a spin-off of Goldilocks and the three bears, don’t I?

St. Regis Hotels hosted our Great Wall experience, an event that began with champagne on a terrace. Next we watched 7 young women in red, skintight costumes combine drumming and dancing in a chorus line type act. The main wow was our sit-down luncheon  on the Great Wall, highlighted by a menu of delicious courses served by scores of waiters who served all the tables simultaneously. One of our luncheon companions was William Lindsay, noted conservationist and Great Wall advocate. A lovely singer serenaded us with ballads and jazz favorites of the 1930’s.

Greg Nacco, Julie Nacco, and Kimberly Wilson Wetty were brave souls who actually ran a length of the Great Wall. Nancy Stein, of Aldine Travel in St. Louis, had a different Great Wall run, one of bad luck. Reaching the last step of the Wall returning to our motor coaches, Nancy’s foot rolled desiring in a broken bone. I hope your foot heals quickly, Nancy!

We made it back to Raffles in time to rest and change into our “party fashions” and to make the mental shift from the “lure of the past” to “the impact of the future” (the theme of our journey to China) as we made our way to the Water Cube, the 2008 Olympics swimming venue. Shangri-La Hotels hosted our evening, which began with a red carpet walk alongside an outside wall of the cube and led us indoors and up an escalator to what was normally the tennis courts but now transformed into a heavenly room dotted with sprays of blue hydrangeas. Liquid refreshment was served from a magnificently carved circular ice bar. I easy found my way to our assigned table and I had wonderful dinner partners including Priscilla Alexander and Tova Fink of Protravel International, Inc, Marina Linhares and Tomas Perez of Teresa Perez Tours in Sao Paulo, Brazil; Angie Goiricuria,Virtuoso’s Vice President of Alliances; Nancy Kim, Managing Director of Imperial Tours; and, our table host Wolfgang Krueger, GM of the Shangri-La Tokyo.

Needless to say the food was deliciously exquisite! And, if we felt we over-ate, we had the opportunity to dance off the calories as Beijing’s most popular DJ and a bevy of 1980’s clad disco dancers entertained us and helped remove any shyness about dancying! Matthew Upchurch, Virtuoso’s CEO, and dance afficianado, was among the first on the dance floor followed quickly by Valerie Wilson and Rosie Goldberger. A personal highlight was watching the Chinese government officials dancing with the advisors. Proving the “Dancing with the Stars” element of the evening, I took a photo of the Vice Chairman of the Tourism Adminsitration with Kimberly Wilson Wetty and an Elton John wannabe!

What a day–a day of contrasts, elegance, and history. We truly spanned the centuries from the lure of the past to the pulsating contemporary feel of today’s Beijing. Having traveled all those years in one day, I was exhausted and ready for a good night’s rest. Sweet dreams!

 

Posted via email from Travelingking

What do you see when I say Aman and Opposite?

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For the answer to my question, read today’s blog post!

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Okay, so where was I in describing the 2011 Virtuoso Chairman’s Event when my eyes slammed shut last night? Right, now I remember. We had the opening meeting, an event so positive that we all kept discussing it on our ride to Opposite House, a unique hotel in the Chaoyang District. It sits among shops that are the originals that are copied in the Pearl Market and Silk Market . Opposite House, owned by Swire, the largest Coca Cola bottler next to Coke itself and owner of Cathay Pacific and a myriad of other recognizable named companies. Opposite House’s name derives from the placement of houses in a hutong

Entering Opposite House is walking into an organic piece of art! Reclaimed wood floors, native sandstone walls, rooms on the perimeter of a soaring roof high lobby that features two ribbons of woven stainless steel suspended from the center of the ceiling. Anthony Ross, Area GM, and his staff converted the lobby area into a contemporary dining venue and he hosted a most amazing contemporary Chinese luncheon. Service by servers dressed in eggplant tops and ballooning black jumpers was impeccable and the food (things I recognized and those that were a mystery to me) was a foodie’s delight! Meg Maggio, owner of the art gallery, Pekin Fine Arts, described the art scene and private art tour options available in Beijing. Meg, originally from Boston, practiced law in Beijing before turning her passion for collecting art into a full-time vocation.

The site inspection at Opposite House was no less spectacular than the meal and, I might add, cleverly tucked between the main course and dessert! Rooms and suites, 99 in total, are minimalist yet warm and inviting. Sweeping floor to ceiling windows provide a meld of inside and outside with electrically operated black-out shades ensure a good night’s sleep. A lower level restaurant and bar cleverly use the diffused light offered by the main structure and even provide light to the subterranean and spectacularly unique swimming pool. Can you tell I was impressed by this property? Who wouldn’t be?

We returned to Raffles with just enough time to layer up for our ride to the Summer Palace. Raffles, an iconic property, in the center of everything and a short walk to the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, has a historic presence in Beijing. As Diane Baker, Raffles VP, described this property and the other unique properties in the Raffles group, as offering emotional luxury. How true! Scattered around the property are photos that provide a history of Beijing in the 20th century and all photos were taken on site!

We had a police escort on our drive to the Summer Palace, a replica of the West Lake area of Hangzhou (which I had the joy and privilege of visiting on a trip to China last month with Imperial Tours). We arrived in record time, actually ahead of schedule, and only Aman, who operates a hotel adjacent to the Summer Palace, could host this event and make it look effortless! We gathered at the edge of the lake and slowly watched the sun set. We also had a demonstration of a man practicing calligraphy on the pathway, using only a long handled brush and water, as his medium of choice. Just in front of the setting sun stood the famous bridge, 17 steps so at the top the emperor could be at 9, a number associated with the emperor and meaning longlasting.

After the sun had set we strolled through the grounds of the Summer Palace and came to an area cordoned off just for us Virtuosos. We then spent a fascinating couple of hours dining our way around a small lake while being entertained by traditional dance, chamber music, ancient Chinese music, dancers with swirling fabric, all accompanied by dramatic changes in the hues of the lighting. It was one of those evenings that I wanted to capture in my heart and mind to adequately describe it to you AND to my grandchildren. I can hear myself telling them about it when they are old enough to understand the rare opportunity their grandma experienced. In fact, someday they will probably say, “Grandma’s on her reminiscing roll again! Let her roll!”

Appropriately clad for an outdoor event (layers and more layers), I was still grateful to move indoors for the site inspection of the Aman Summer Palace. Having been newly baptized as an Aman junkie after my stay last month at Amanfayun, I was equally impressed with this property…and the warmth, too! Dessert, along with painting and craft demonstrations, was provided in the main hall before we reluctantly boarded our coaches for our ride back to the city.

This morning provided a very special shopping opportunity because Nancy Kim, Managing Director of Imperial Tours, assembled a group a vendors, offering us a chance to purchase some select items of clothing, jewelry and décor. You know, of course, that I had to purchase a few baubles, right?

Now we’re off to a luncheon ON the Great Wall of China, hosted by St. Regis hotels. Stay tuned!

Posted via email from Travelingking


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