Space Goddess

Dear Mr, Ms, Mrs, Miss, Father, Mother, Brother, Sister Terrorist,

I don’t know why you do what you do. I can’t imagine anything that would cause me to purposely kill people–not a war, not a cause, no fervent beliefs. Nope, nothing except insanity—are you insane? I am looking for some rational explanation of your actions the past few days in Mumbai, and in the past bombings in London, Madrid, Yemen, New York, Kenya…

I know, I know—one can’t define illogic using logic and perhaps my desire to “understand” is my attempt to tie this all in a neat little package and put it safely on some remote shelf in a distant place in my brain to forever remain, collecting cobwebs and dust, and never causing anyone pain ever again. Ahhh, sounds like a fairytale for grownups, doesn’t it?

Michael and I stayed at the Taj Mahal Hotel and Towers in Mumbai in April. A grand dame of historic prominence, it overlooks the famous Gateway of India. I love Mumbai (called “Bombay” until 1995). It is a potpourri of people, customs, and architecture. A blend of modern financial and traditional business models (e.g. the famous “Dhobis”—washermen), traditional cuisine mixed with McDonald’s (no meat, thank you very much!), contemporary buildings moments away from World Heritage sites, Mumbai is an enthralling city.

As a survivor from Vancouver so aptly said, we need to go to Mumbai and put our arms around its citizens. This violence is NOT Mumbai and we cannot allow the terrorists to win by avoiding this magnificent city. In fact, perhaps the only way we can fight this insanity is to continue to discover new friends in every corner of this world.

Groucho Marx once said, “I don’t want to be a member of a club that would have me as a member!” Well, Groucho, I disagree! Once again, I’ve been included on a panel of travel experts for Forbestraveler.com. Here’s what Jeff Koyen of Forbes Traveler says about the list of the top 400 Hotels in the World and the people who chose them:

The world’s most distinguished travel experts pick the finest hotels

“A once-in-a-lifetime experience that sets a new standard for over-the-top luxurious hotels. This is a masterpiece. If you want to see what living like a billionaire is like—just once in your life—stay here.”

“In 35 years of hotel design and visiting, this is the best hotel experience I have ever had. Such a wonderful location and such wonderful service—it was a magical experience. I was heartbroken to leave.”

“Truly one of the most beautiful spots—and hotels—in the world. What more can I say?”

“These are just three of the many comments we collected from the Forbes Traveler 400 board of travel experts who determined the 2008/2009 list of the world’s top luxury hotels. You’re just dying to know which hotel they’re talking about, right? Well…to paraphrase the Bard, there’s the rub.

When we first published this groundbreaking list two years ago, we broke rank from the other travel magazines and websites that place great emphasis on mathematically ranking the best hotels in the world. Statistically speaking, the only way to make such a claim is to ask several thousand people for their opinions. The world’s best hotels, then, are often ranked by a sea of anonymous web surfers.

Turning to the crowd is good for certain tasks. When you can’t remember the capital of Belarus, ask everyone on the bus. Someone will probably remember it’s Minsk (a fifth-grader, no doubt). But when picking the right hotel means the difference between an unforgettable trip and an unforgiving spouse, shouldn’t you ask people who stay in luxury hotels once or twice a week—not once a year?

So, from a wide variety of industries, we assembled a board of 79  luxury-travel experts. Arianna Huffington is a renowned author, publisher and one-time California gubernatorial candidate; her fellow board member, Todd English, is a celebrity chef and restaurateur. Adam Tihany is a noted interior designer and architect who’s responsible for several high-profile hotels around the world; Tony Wheeler co-founded Lonely Planet, publisher of the eponymous guidebooks.

We were fortunate to have Erik Blachford, current CEO of TerraPass and former CEO of Expedia, opine alongside Peter Greenberg, noted travel writer and The Today Show’s travel editor. And if anyone knows about luxury hotels, it’s Matthew Upchurch, CEO of Virtuoso, a consortium of upscale travel agents, and Aaron Simpson, group CEO of Quintessentially, a global concierge service for discerning travelers.

We asked our board members to rate nearly 800 highly regarded four- and five-star hotels in seven categories. Because new hotels need time to find their rhythm, we omitted properties less than two years old; and, we didn’t include hotels that are undergoing major renovations. Our experts were promised anonymity so they could speak freely, and they had nothing to gain from any of the hotels they praised (or criticized). We then took the top-rated 400 and commissioned reviews from professional travel writers who have first-hand experience with the hotels (and did not receive complimentary stays during their visits).

The result is the Forbes Traveler 400, a rundown of the world’s best hotels, spread across six continents and presented geographically.”

I am honored to be a member of this panel! I hope you click on the link below to see the Forbes 400!

http://www.forbestraveler.com/forbes400/

Meet the other 78 members of this panel!

http://www.forbestraveler.com/forbes400/panel

Hailstorm #2 (see the previous post—I’ll wait…ready?):

Last week a typical spring storm meandered through Kansas City with the usual cast of characters—rain, wind, lightning and thunder. This time we had a surprise guest, hail. The hail loudly announced its arrival at 3:00 AM chastising me for trying to sleep through it. I got up and looked outside. Our deck was covered in white—reminding me of the picnic at the Peak. This time, however, the hail wasn’t accompanied by a gourmet meal; it’s presence gave me a chance to replay the event in Shimla and to delight in my memories.

 Thank you, hail!

Last night severe thunderstorms, damaging winds, hail and tornadoes roared through our region. Luckily we experienced no damage and were able to simply listen and watch Mother Nature’s orchestra perform. As staccato flashes of lightning,  the booming tympany of thunder, the chords of rain,  and the thrumming of hail (Kimberly–”thrumming” is in honor of you!) entertained me, my mind started to wander (most of the time, it wanders back to me–which is a good thing!).

I began to consider “hail”—that I’ve been in 3 hailstorms in 3 weeks (a life record for me, perhaps, but not one worth celebrating!):

The first hailstorm of this series was when I was in the Himilayas above Shimla, India. The General Manager of Wildflower Hall, an Oberoi hotel, invited a group of us on a picnic on the grounds of a historic cottage, the Peak. When the skies turned threatening and the wind started to howl, we decided to wait a bit to see if the storm would pass. The storm passed quickly and we piled into the 4-wheel drive vehicles ready for our picnic. Apparently, some clouds thought they were invited to the picnic, too, and they followed us to the cottage. The view was spectacular and the gardens looked like Monet might have painted them. Soon, not wanting to be left behind, wind and rain joined the clouds and our picnic moved indoors. We were invited to explore the cottage (can you call a 3,000 square foot home a cottage???) as the servers scurried around to prepare for our indoor picnic. This was no “picnic” (as I said in an earlier blog), it was a feast! For me, the dessert was being able to roam around the Peak, look at the rooms, the layers of history in the decor, and for a moment in time, I was experiencing 19th century Shimla!

The hail had pummeled the cottage, as it had for decades, and the grounds were covered in balls of white ice. The hail gave me an opportunity to pause, to leisurely reflect, and to absorb the beauty of the Shimla, the Himalayas and to give thanks that I was given this gift of experience.

Reflecting on our return flight from Delhi to O’Hare on American Airlines, I wanted to write something that helped you understand our experience. In my ongoing effort to accentuate the positive, I came up with: 

American Airlines Supports Olympic Torch Run in Delhi!

Now for the story behind the headline: While we were in India, American Airlines continued their new-found passion for disrupting the lives of people flying with them by canceling myriad flights for “maintenance compliance checks.” Realizing they might have over-reached their goal of creating frustration and chaos, the president of American sent out a blast email assuring passengers (especially, of course, those of us who have a metallic qualifier attached to our name—platinum, gold, etc) the airline promises to improve.

I took comfort in the president’s message and I “assumed” we’d experience a problem-free journey…you know what assume means, don’t you? It makes an ass out of u and me!

 Arriving at Delhi International Airport, we checked in with the expert assistance of Greaves India’s airport service manager. He truly helped us through the maze of searches, xrays, frisks, and long lines (yet another reason I recommend Greaves!!!). When we arrived at the ticket counter, we asked if we had been upgraded to Business Class (we were waitlisted for the privilege of sleeping at less than a 90 degree incline!). The service attendant saw the request upgrade and told us we were already on the list and to ask the gate clerk…our first tiny, itty bitty hiccup…there is NO gate clerk.

Still, I remained hopeful and certainly grateful we had only moments until we boarded the 777 and headed back home. At the stated boarding time, people began to queue up (ahhh—to sound so British or Indian!). Sheep instinct winning out, we joined the queue and waited…and waited…and waited. By boarding time our line had become an interesting contemporary artform snaking its way through the waiting area (where’s a snake charmer to straighten us out when we need one?). Finally, a sari-clad young woman inched out of the “Do NOT enter for Fear of Death or Worse Area” to inform people one by one that there was one teensy weensy little problem—we had no flight crew!

Thursday the Olympic Torch passed through Delhi and the event created a huge traffic jam. Apparently, the well-intended flight crew got caught in the snarl and was unable to yet arrive at the airport. Sounds plausible, doesn’t it? I don’t think so! A Boeing 777 seats anywhere from 301 to 368 people, depending on seat configuration. Interestingly enough, all 301-368 of us managed to arrive at the airport in plenty of time to be at the appointed gate at the appointed boarding time. Somehow, all of us had managed to get to the airport despite the “Olympic Torch” traffic snafu—all of us, that is, expect the flight crew.

Not to fear—the crew did finally appear, harried and disheveled from their trying ordeal about 1 1/2 hours after our scheduled departure time(I can’t resist repeating that none of the passengers experienced their pain!). One more carryon luggage check and body search (can I keep lining up for this?) and we were finally ready to take off—except for one more teensy, weensy, little problem—a malfunctioning fuel pump. After a quick 20 minutes, the pilot informed us that the pump could not be fixed but we really didn’t need it to fly safely from Delhi, India to Chicago, Illinois, a mere 7500 miles nonstop.

The captain apologized for the  2 1/2 hour delay from our scheduled midnight departure (can we say when the big hand is on the 6 and the little hand is on the 2?) citing the Olympic Torch urban legend. Flight attendants picked up on that story and used it to justify their rude manner, irritable voices, and lack of service (or just maybe they were that way already???).

We had flown all over India on wonderful non-US airlines which sported new jets, hospitable crews (they even smiled and looked like they wanted to be of service!), and relatively ontime departures.  This fact led me to relinquish one more piece of the prejudice I seem to carry, that American myth that the US has the biggest, the best, the most advanced, yada, yada yada. In today’s world of air travel, the US air carriers trail in quality, efficiency, and age of aircraft. Only one US airline, Midwest Air, occasionally makes the list of the Top 10 Airlines in the world.   Attendants on many flights I’ve taken act like I should be grateful to have a seat—just shut up and leave them alone! Maintenance of aircraft is a forgotten art (should it ever have been an “art”?), and pride of employment is just too passe. Pass me another round of entitlement, please!

Thus, the Olympic Torch title is not what it’s cracked up to be. I offer some alternatives:

Fly American—Experience New Lows in Service!

American Airlines—Service with a frown!

We Put the Con in Continental!

Delta Airlines—Do We Look Like We Care?

Northwest and Delta Merge—Double Your Trouble!

United—to serve ourselves!

Today is the last of 3 magical days spent at Oberoi Wildflower Hall, which sits above Shimla, India, in the mid-range of the Himilayas. We are at an altitude of 8350 feet surrounded by forests of pine, spruce, cedar, and an unusual variety of oak. Shimla was the summer capital of the empire when under English rule. Shimla is built into the side of the mountain and the buildings seem to precariously cling to the moutnainside. Wildflower Hall sits quite a bit above Shimla and has majestic views into the valleys and out to the upper range of the Himalayas.

 Let’s pause here and have an elocution lesson: these mountains are pronounced “Hih-mahl-yahs” ( accent on the second syllable) and not the Americanized Him-ah-lay-ahs (accent on the third syllable). So, if you hear me talk about these mountains from now on, I will honor the correct pronunciation. Besides, it sounds prettier!

Wildflower Hall has a long history–beginning as a summer cottage for an aristocratic Englishman, having a many year run as a government run hotel, burning to the ground in 1993, and now being built on the original footprint and with today’s modern standards. This version of Wildflower Hall began building in 1996 and finally opened in 2001. The general manager, David Matthews, is passionate about this property, almost like a proud parent! He is as gracious as they come, very intelligent, and makes you feel at home immediately. Wildflower Hall is known for its amazing spa, which is managed by Banyan Tree. They are known for holistic treatments and massages based on Ayurvda and Western techniques.  Wildflower also boasts many outdoor experiences and houses a small, but wonderfully stocked and fairly priced gift shop and a charming bookstore.

So, enough travelogue, here’s what I experienced: a wonderful 30 minute slide presentation on the history of Shima (do not miss this!),;a traditional Himachal dinner; a walk in the town of Shimla from Clark’s Hotel to the Oberoi Cecil, where we once again feasted on superb Indian cuisine; 2 1/2 hours of heavenly Himalyian spa treatments; a hike on the “Wild Strawberry Trail” in the forest which abuts Wildflower Hall seeing amazing wildflowers, enjoying breathtaking views, and learning about the leopards, goren, monkeys, deer and black bear that call this area home; and a picnic in “The Peak”, an old colonial bungalow that offers amazing views. We were supposed to picnic on the grounds of “The Peak,” but the weather gods had their way and we experienced an intense thunder and hail storm. Actually, the weather proved lucky for us because “The Peak” is a large home (I  thought bungalows were inherently small—guess not!) that has had many owners. It began as the summer cottage for the Viceroy of Shimla and is currently owned by Nepalese royalty. This is not a picnic as in “throw me a piece of cold chicken and pass me a beer!” We were greeted with champagne, an array of salads, rostis, and to-die-for pastas (all served piping hot), and wonderful pastries for dessert. As we drove back up to Wildflower Hall, the weather gods treated us to a spectacular rainbow. Tonight we are having farewell cocktails and “Grill under the Stars” dinner. Then it’s off to Delhi for a day and then back home.

I’ve described India before as a slice of Heaven. To me, Shimla is the centerpiece of this incredible sub-contitent!

Thank you, dear India, for wrapping me in your warmth, spirituality, adventure, culture, nature and beauty. And, further thanks to our many hosts—Amber Tours, Pierce & Leslie, A&K India, Micato Safaris, Cox & Kings (one of the best!), and the incomparable Greaves India (the absolute best!).

India, you have taken hold of my heart and soul in the way I’ve experienced in only one other continent, Africa. And, as I’ve done with Africa, I’ll return often and I invite my friends (those I know and those I’ve yet to meet) to join me in experiencing this most amazing destination—India, Incredible India!

I feel somewhat that I am in a spelling bee and may be eliminated from the tournament at any moment. I will try to sum up the past few days since we left Udaipur and I’ve learned several new Indian names that I pray I won’t misspell any of them!

Our last night in Udaipur was a sensory delight! Mr. PRS Oberoi, Chairman & Chief Executive Office of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts, hosted a wonderful dinner on a patio overlooking the lake. Dancers and musicians reminded us of the unique and historic that one thinks of when we conjure up India in our minds. Once again, although I swore I couldn’t eat another bite, I enjoyed a culinary feast! We then walked down to a terrace that overlooked the lake and were asked to turn around to face the hotel to experience an incredible fireworks display!

The next morning we flew to Jodhpur, capital of Rajisthan and were guests of the Maharaja of Jodhpur at Umaid Bhawan Palace, his private residence, part of which is now a 5 star hotel! Umaid Bhawan is the largest active residential palace in the world. And, yes, for you enquiring minds, Jodhpur is the home of the original jodhpur pants!

Later in the afternoon we flew from Jodhpur to Mumbai (Bombay). What an amazing sea of humanity and great mix of cosmopolitan meets Victorian, Jain, Sikkh, Hindu, Moslem, etc! We stayed at the Taj Palace and Tower across the street from the famed Gateway of India. Our room was in the original “Palace” section which is more historic than the tower building. I fell in love with Bombay (It’s only been called Mumbai for 7 years and many residents still call the city Bombay). It is vibrant, a heady mix of old and new, a huge economic and banking center in one part and, not too far away, the famous “Public Laundry.” We were guests of Nathanial Waring, President of Cox & Kings USA, at a wonderful restaurant, Indigo, a chic wine bar/urban cuisine establishment owned by a former New Yorker!

Our final evening in Mumbai was quite an event! We were treated to a form of Indian dance, song, and storytelling that was like an operatic ballet done in traditional Indian costume using traditional Indian instruments. Afterwards, all of us (in traditional Indian garb) had a gala dinner accompanied by live “contemporary” music. I put the word “contemporary” in quotes because the music was what Dan Acroyd used to sing and play on SNL when he was doing a spoof of a Holiday Inn-type lounge act. And, you know what? The music worked! It absolutely fit in and became one more endearing memory of Incredible India.

 More to come…

A few people asked me, “Why would you go to India? There’s so much poverty there!” One person I know never wants to travel to places unless they can be assured that they’ll only see what they see in the mirror.

One cannot nor should not ignore the poverty in India or, for that matter, in any country. Do I avoid these places because it’s easier to live in denial? Do I really want to spend my life obsessing over the latest, the newest, the biggest, the best and block out that people all over this planet live far below the poverty line or are dying from hunger and disease? Am I so self-consumed that I’ve lost any semblance of compassion?

What did I do to deserve the life I lead, the home I live in, the education I’ve received, the health care? Nothing! To repeat an earlier post, I just happen to be a member of “The Lucky Sperm Club”. Membership in that club carries very high, yet very satisfying dues—I must give back to the universe what has given so much abundance to me!

One more point (while I’m on a roll): When I travel I try to leave the U.S. in the U.S. What I mean is that I try to set aside what is “normal” according to citizens of our country. I have no right to judge another’s culture according to what I find comfortable. My comfort is about my history, my experiences, and wherever I am “today” is the culture I am to experience. Different doesn’t equal “bad”! Different is just “different!” If I immerse myself in another culture, I know I’ll discover so much more about myself, how I relate to others, to the world than I’m likely to discover in my safe routine back home. 

Last, the travel and tourism industry is one of the largest contributors to many countries’ economies. Traveling to places creates jobs and many properties and companies around the world give back to the society around them, to the people, the infrastructure, the environment. So, my friends, as Martha Stewart might say, “Travel is a good thing…a very, very good thing!”

Yesterday I celebrated my 60th birthday in Udaipur, India, in a most memorable and incredible way: We’re staying at Udaivilas, my favorite resort hotel in the world (not planned by us—this trip is an award trip for our productivity and we had no input on the itinerary!).  we were treated to cocktail with the Prince and Princess of Mewar at their “city palace.” The city palace is about 1 kilometer square and today houses two hotels, a museum as well as the private residence of the former rulers of this area (pre democracy days). Following that, we were led by local Indian trumpeters and drummers up a winding road  strewn with rose petals to the Queen’s courtyard where we dined, watched beautiful Indian dancers accompanied by musicians, and they gave me a big cake! The evening ended with fireworks. Now that was one hell of a 60th! Some people might call this an amazing coincidence; you know what a coincidence is, dont’ you? It’s God performing a miracle wishing to remain anonymous!