Below is a portion of an email Dennis Pinto, of Micato Safaris, sent: 

In an extraordinary “Open Letter” to the public, the American Ambassador to Kenya is urging travelers to visit Kenya.   Ambassador Ranneberger’s letter is available through the link below. Here are some highlights:
 

“I hope you’ll consider visiting Kenya as a tourist or businessperson in 2008.  The country is very much back in business and this is an exciting time to be here.  There is a tangible spirit of renewed hope and opportunity.  You’ll find Kenyans to be welcoming and warm.   I hope to see you here soon!
 
“I urge you to look again at Kenya as an exciting destination for tourism and for doing business….  In 2007, a record 102,000 Americans visited Kenya, many to enjoy the richness of the country’s culture and the majesty of its landscapes and unparalleled wildlife.
 
“….I can report that there have been positive developments that are opening up the economic climate, making Kenya once again the perfect locale for business and tourism….  Kenya is re-energized and is once again a country on the move.”

…seemed unbelievable then…looks like the “news” shows of today!

Reflecting on our return flight from Delhi to O’Hare on American Airlines, I wanted to write something that helped you understand our experience. In my ongoing effort to accentuate the positive, I came up with: 

American Airlines Supports Olympic Torch Run in Delhi!

Now for the story behind the headline: While we were in India, American Airlines continued their new-found passion for disrupting the lives of people flying with them by canceling myriad flights for “maintenance compliance checks.” Realizing they might have over-reached their goal of creating frustration and chaos, the president of American sent out a blast email assuring passengers (especially, of course, those of us who have a metallic qualifier attached to our name—platinum, gold, etc) the airline promises to improve.

I took comfort in the president’s message and I “assumed” we’d experience a problem-free journey…you know what assume means, don’t you? It makes an ass out of u and me!

 Arriving at Delhi International Airport, we checked in with the expert assistance of Greaves India’s airport service manager. He truly helped us through the maze of searches, xrays, frisks, and long lines (yet another reason I recommend Greaves!!!). When we arrived at the ticket counter, we asked if we had been upgraded to Business Class (we were waitlisted for the privilege of sleeping at less than a 90 degree incline!). The service attendant saw the request upgrade and told us we were already on the list and to ask the gate clerk…our first tiny, itty bitty hiccup…there is NO gate clerk.

Still, I remained hopeful and certainly grateful we had only moments until we boarded the 777 and headed back home. At the stated boarding time, people began to queue up (ahhh—to sound so British or Indian!). Sheep instinct winning out, we joined the queue and waited…and waited…and waited. By boarding time our line had become an interesting contemporary artform snaking its way through the waiting area (where’s a snake charmer to straighten us out when we need one?). Finally, a sari-clad young woman inched out of the “Do NOT enter for Fear of Death or Worse Area” to inform people one by one that there was one teensy weensy little problem—we had no flight crew!

Thursday the Olympic Torch passed through Delhi and the event created a huge traffic jam. Apparently, the well-intended flight crew got caught in the snarl and was unable to yet arrive at the airport. Sounds plausible, doesn’t it? I don’t think so! A Boeing 777 seats anywhere from 301 to 368 people, depending on seat configuration. Interestingly enough, all 301-368 of us managed to arrive at the airport in plenty of time to be at the appointed gate at the appointed boarding time. Somehow, all of us had managed to get to the airport despite the “Olympic Torch” traffic snafu—all of us, that is, expect the flight crew.

Not to fear—the crew did finally appear, harried and disheveled from their trying ordeal about 1 1/2 hours after our scheduled departure time(I can’t resist repeating that none of the passengers experienced their pain!). One more carryon luggage check and body search (can I keep lining up for this?) and we were finally ready to take off—except for one more teensy, weensy, little problem—a malfunctioning fuel pump. After a quick 20 minutes, the pilot informed us that the pump could not be fixed but we really didn’t need it to fly safely from Delhi, India to Chicago, Illinois, a mere 7500 miles nonstop.

The captain apologized for the  2 1/2 hour delay from our scheduled midnight departure (can we say when the big hand is on the 6 and the little hand is on the 2?) citing the Olympic Torch urban legend. Flight attendants picked up on that story and used it to justify their rude manner, irritable voices, and lack of service (or just maybe they were that way already???).

We had flown all over India on wonderful non-US airlines which sported new jets, hospitable crews (they even smiled and looked like they wanted to be of service!), and relatively ontime departures.  This fact led me to relinquish one more piece of the prejudice I seem to carry, that American myth that the US has the biggest, the best, the most advanced, yada, yada yada. In today’s world of air travel, the US air carriers trail in quality, efficiency, and age of aircraft. Only one US airline, Midwest Air, occasionally makes the list of the Top 10 Airlines in the world.   Attendants on many flights I’ve taken act like I should be grateful to have a seat—just shut up and leave them alone! Maintenance of aircraft is a forgotten art (should it ever have been an “art”?), and pride of employment is just too passe. Pass me another round of entitlement, please!

Thus, the Olympic Torch title is not what it’s cracked up to be. I offer some alternatives:

Fly American—Experience New Lows in Service!

American Airlines—Service with a frown!

We Put the Con in Continental!

Delta Airlines—Do We Look Like We Care?

Northwest and Delta Merge—Double Your Trouble!

United—to serve ourselves!

Today is the last of 3 magical days spent at Oberoi Wildflower Hall, which sits above Shimla, India, in the mid-range of the Himilayas. We are at an altitude of 8350 feet surrounded by forests of pine, spruce, cedar, and an unusual variety of oak. Shimla was the summer capital of the empire when under English rule. Shimla is built into the side of the mountain and the buildings seem to precariously cling to the moutnainside. Wildflower Hall sits quite a bit above Shimla and has majestic views into the valleys and out to the upper range of the Himalayas.

 Let’s pause here and have an elocution lesson: these mountains are pronounced “Hih-mahl-yahs” ( accent on the second syllable) and not the Americanized Him-ah-lay-ahs (accent on the third syllable). So, if you hear me talk about these mountains from now on, I will honor the correct pronunciation. Besides, it sounds prettier!

Wildflower Hall has a long history–beginning as a summer cottage for an aristocratic Englishman, having a many year run as a government run hotel, burning to the ground in 1993, and now being built on the original footprint and with today’s modern standards. This version of Wildflower Hall began building in 1996 and finally opened in 2001. The general manager, David Matthews, is passionate about this property, almost like a proud parent! He is as gracious as they come, very intelligent, and makes you feel at home immediately. Wildflower Hall is known for its amazing spa, which is managed by Banyan Tree. They are known for holistic treatments and massages based on Ayurvda and Western techniques.  Wildflower also boasts many outdoor experiences and houses a small, but wonderfully stocked and fairly priced gift shop and a charming bookstore.

So, enough travelogue, here’s what I experienced: a wonderful 30 minute slide presentation on the history of Shima (do not miss this!),;a traditional Himachal dinner; a walk in the town of Shimla from Clark’s Hotel to the Oberoi Cecil, where we once again feasted on superb Indian cuisine; 2 1/2 hours of heavenly Himalyian spa treatments; a hike on the “Wild Strawberry Trail” in the forest which abuts Wildflower Hall seeing amazing wildflowers, enjoying breathtaking views, and learning about the leopards, goren, monkeys, deer and black bear that call this area home; and a picnic in “The Peak”, an old colonial bungalow that offers amazing views. We were supposed to picnic on the grounds of “The Peak,” but the weather gods had their way and we experienced an intense thunder and hail storm. Actually, the weather proved lucky for us because “The Peak” is a large home (I  thought bungalows were inherently small—guess not!) that has had many owners. It began as the summer cottage for the Viceroy of Shimla and is currently owned by Nepalese royalty. This is not a picnic as in “throw me a piece of cold chicken and pass me a beer!” We were greeted with champagne, an array of salads, rostis, and to-die-for pastas (all served piping hot), and wonderful pastries for dessert. As we drove back up to Wildflower Hall, the weather gods treated us to a spectacular rainbow. Tonight we are having farewell cocktails and “Grill under the Stars” dinner. Then it’s off to Delhi for a day and then back home.

I’ve described India before as a slice of Heaven. To me, Shimla is the centerpiece of this incredible sub-contitent!

Thank you, dear India, for wrapping me in your warmth, spirituality, adventure, culture, nature and beauty. And, further thanks to our many hosts—Amber Tours, Pierce & Leslie, A&K India, Micato Safaris, Cox & Kings (one of the best!), and the incomparable Greaves India (the absolute best!).

India, you have taken hold of my heart and soul in the way I’ve experienced in only one other continent, Africa. And, as I’ve done with Africa, I’ll return often and I invite my friends (those I know and those I’ve yet to meet) to join me in experiencing this most amazing destination—India, Incredible India!

I feel somewhat that I am in a spelling bee and may be eliminated from the tournament at any moment. I will try to sum up the past few days since we left Udaipur and I’ve learned several new Indian names that I pray I won’t misspell any of them!

Our last night in Udaipur was a sensory delight! Mr. PRS Oberoi, Chairman & Chief Executive Office of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts, hosted a wonderful dinner on a patio overlooking the lake. Dancers and musicians reminded us of the unique and historic that one thinks of when we conjure up India in our minds. Once again, although I swore I couldn’t eat another bite, I enjoyed a culinary feast! We then walked down to a terrace that overlooked the lake and were asked to turn around to face the hotel to experience an incredible fireworks display!

The next morning we flew to Jodhpur, capital of Rajisthan and were guests of the Maharaja of Jodhpur at Umaid Bhawan Palace, his private residence, part of which is now a 5 star hotel! Umaid Bhawan is the largest active residential palace in the world. And, yes, for you enquiring minds, Jodhpur is the home of the original jodhpur pants!

Later in the afternoon we flew from Jodhpur to Mumbai (Bombay). What an amazing sea of humanity and great mix of cosmopolitan meets Victorian, Jain, Sikkh, Hindu, Moslem, etc! We stayed at the Taj Palace and Tower across the street from the famed Gateway of India. Our room was in the original “Palace” section which is more historic than the tower building. I fell in love with Bombay (It’s only been called Mumbai for 7 years and many residents still call the city Bombay). It is vibrant, a heady mix of old and new, a huge economic and banking center in one part and, not too far away, the famous “Public Laundry.” We were guests of Nathanial Waring, President of Cox & Kings USA, at a wonderful restaurant, Indigo, a chic wine bar/urban cuisine establishment owned by a former New Yorker!

Our final evening in Mumbai was quite an event! We were treated to a form of Indian dance, song, and storytelling that was like an operatic ballet done in traditional Indian costume using traditional Indian instruments. Afterwards, all of us (in traditional Indian garb) had a gala dinner accompanied by live “contemporary” music. I put the word “contemporary” in quotes because the music was what Dan Acroyd used to sing and play on SNL when he was doing a spoof of a Holiday Inn-type lounge act. And, you know what? The music worked! It absolutely fit in and became one more endearing memory of Incredible India.

 More to come…

A few people asked me, “Why would you go to India? There’s so much poverty there!” One person I know never wants to travel to places unless they can be assured that they’ll only see what they see in the mirror.

One cannot nor should not ignore the poverty in India or, for that matter, in any country. Do I avoid these places because it’s easier to live in denial? Do I really want to spend my life obsessing over the latest, the newest, the biggest, the best and block out that people all over this planet live far below the poverty line or are dying from hunger and disease? Am I so self-consumed that I’ve lost any semblance of compassion?

What did I do to deserve the life I lead, the home I live in, the education I’ve received, the health care? Nothing! To repeat an earlier post, I just happen to be a member of “The Lucky Sperm Club”. Membership in that club carries very high, yet very satisfying dues—I must give back to the universe what has given so much abundance to me!

One more point (while I’m on a roll): When I travel I try to leave the U.S. in the U.S. What I mean is that I try to set aside what is “normal” according to citizens of our country. I have no right to judge another’s culture according to what I find comfortable. My comfort is about my history, my experiences, and wherever I am “today” is the culture I am to experience. Different doesn’t equal “bad”! Different is just “different!” If I immerse myself in another culture, I know I’ll discover so much more about myself, how I relate to others, to the world than I’m likely to discover in my safe routine back home. 

Last, the travel and tourism industry is one of the largest contributors to many countries’ economies. Traveling to places creates jobs and many properties and companies around the world give back to the society around them, to the people, the infrastructure, the environment. So, my friends, as Martha Stewart might say, “Travel is a good thing…a very, very good thing!”

Yesterday I celebrated my 60th birthday in Udaipur, India, in a most memorable and incredible way: We’re staying at Udaivilas, my favorite resort hotel in the world (not planned by us—this trip is an award trip for our productivity and we had no input on the itinerary!).  we were treated to cocktail with the Prince and Princess of Mewar at their “city palace.” The city palace is about 1 kilometer square and today houses two hotels, a museum as well as the private residence of the former rulers of this area (pre democracy days). Following that, we were led by local Indian trumpeters and drummers up a winding road  strewn with rose petals to the Queen’s courtyard where we dined, watched beautiful Indian dancers accompanied by musicians, and they gave me a big cake! The evening ended with fireworks. Now that was one hell of a 60th! Some people might call this an amazing coincidence; you know what a coincidence is, dont’ you? It’s God performing a miracle wishing to remain anonymous!

I know that some of you clapped and chanted “I believe” to help us get upgraded to Business Class; however, your efforts didn’t work. Now, I’m not going to mention names, but I know for sure that some of you didn’t participate! Either a) you didn’t believe that clapping saved Tinkerbell; b)that we should have spent thousands of dollars to buy Business Class seats (remember, we have a son in college!!!); or c) that sitting in a Coach seat for 15 hours is some type of new age mystical experience!

 We arrived in Delhi and are staying at the Imperial Hotel, one of the Grand Dames of Historic hotels. Our suite is spacious—large armoire, flat-screen TV, Internet connection (for a fee), marble floors, 12 foot ceilings, the requisite marble bathroom, comfy bed with luxe duvet, and white upholstered furniture.

Yesterday we toured Old Delhi, an amazing hodge podge of streets and alleyways boasting a huge offering of goods for locals to purchase. There are shoe” streets, spice streets, lanes of butchered mutton and other unknown raw items (no extra charge for flies!), boulevards of fabric, beads, jewelry, and car parts (never, never leave a car unattended or else you’ll buy it back one part at a time)and all woven together by the most amazing maze of electrical lines one could imagine (think cobweb on steroids). We took a rickshaw ride, toured the largest mosque in India (room for 20,000++ worshippers).

Early this morning we were taken by chartered plane to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. To fly to Agra is a rare treat because the only airport is actually a military base and the government must give you special clearance to land there. From the airport we wound our way through Agra passing vendors of all types trying to eke out a living. Need a shave? Barbers set up shop on the street and for 10 Indian Rupees (about $.25), they’ll clean you up very nicely. Of course, sometimes there is no place to hang the mirror so you might be asked to hold it!

This was our second time to experience the Taj Mahal and I believe I felt a deeper appreciation, a profound spirituality, and incomparable sense of awe this time. Knowing the history of this wonder of the world, I could instead focus on the incredible artistry and the amazing testament to love. The weather gods were very kind to us in that we enjoyed a pleasant day, mid 80′s with a light breeze.

We then went to one of our favorite hotels, the Oberoi Amarvilas, for an exquisite buffet lunch. On our first visit to India we stayed at Amarvilas, which overlooks the Taj Mahal. I remember waking up, pulling open the curtains, seeing the Taj Mahal and reminding myself that this was real! We were not on some Hollywood or Bollywood movie set!

We have one more day in Delhi and then off to my favorite hotel in the world, Oberoi’s Udaivilas. What a great way to spend my 60th birthday! Care to join us?

It’s 9:10 AM on Friday, April 4th. My clothes are packed (and, yes, I took way too many tops! I justified this packing faux pas by rationalizing that I’d need long sleeved tops and lots of layers when we go to Shimla in the Himilayas), my carryon is filled with my “toys” (iPod, laptop, books, Sudoku, crosswords, other puzzles, Conde Nast Traveler, National Geographic, and my knitting), and I’m sitting here blogging!

 We’ll leave for the airport in 3 hours. From KC we fly to Chicago, change to our international flight, and travel nonstop from Chicago to Delhi. Can we say long, long flight? That’s why I take a plethora of “toys” and, once aboard, I’ll check out the movie schedule to catch up on some “just past prime” shows.

Now, here’s where I need your help: we are flying on American Airlines and have booked Coach seats and then applied mileage points for a possilbe upgrade to Business Class. As of this morning, the “Gods and Goddesses of American” have yet to upgrade our seats. There are 7 Business class seats open and American is hoping to sell them to someone needing a last minute flight to Delhi (or perhaps to someone who craves long haul plane rides???). Should the seats become available, we “might” be awarded an upgrade. I just know that if you all clap your hands and chant aloud, “I believe! I believe!” we will receive the upgrade. This flight is almost 15 hours long so we really need you to clap and chant loud and long (the “Gods and Goddesses of American Airlines” are hearing impaired due to the loud and constant whine of jet engines).

Are you clapping and chanting yet? Do you doubt this will work? Hey, it saved Tinkerbell, didn’t it? 

A week from today I will celebrate my 60th birthday—in my favorite hotel in the world, in one of my favorite countries. I’ll give you a hint: it is the largest English speaking nation and the world’s largest democracy. Need another hint? This country is home to the oldest university in the world; and the last clue—this hotel has been rated #1 in the world by the readers of Travel + Leisure for the past two years .

Wow! You are a true travel afficionado because I heard you say, ”Udaivilas in Udaipur, India” and you are right!

Michael and I will soon leave for a two week journey to India including stops in Delhi, Udaipur, Agra, Jodphur, Mombai, and Shimla in the Himalayas. I will try to blog as often as possible so you can take a “virtual” journey to this amazing, colorful, spiritual, and culturally diverse country.

Namaste!